Used Car Test Drive Red Flags: What to Look, Listen and Feel For

A test drive is your best chance to find problems before the car becomes your problem. Plan on at least 20 to 30 minutes, with a mix of city streets, a highway and some rough pavement. Turn the radio off. Here's what to look, listen and feel for.

Before you start the engine

• Start it cold. Ask the dealer not to run the car before you arrive. A warm engine can hide hard starting, rough idle and some noises. Touch the hood: if it's already warm, ask why.
• Look underneath. Fresh drips, wet spots on the ground, or heavy rust on the frame and brake lines are warning signs.
• Check the tires. Uneven wear on the inside or outside edge can point to alignment or suspension problems. Mismatched brands on the same axle can mean corner-cutting.
• Look at the panels. Paint that doesn't quite match, uneven gaps between body panels, or overspray on rubber trim can mean accident repair.
• Smell the inside. A musty or mildew smell, damp carpet, or silt under the seats can mean flood damage. Heavy air freshener can be covering something.

When you start it

• Warning lights. All dash lights should come on briefly, then go out. A check-engine light that stays on is a problem. A light that never comes on at all may have been disabled.
• Exhaust smoke. Blue smoke means burning oil. Thick white smoke that doesn't clear can mean a coolant leak, which may point to a head gasket. Black smoke means the engine is running rich.
• Idle. The engine should idle smoothly, without shaking, surging, or ticking and knocking sounds.

On the road

• Transmission. Shifts should be smooth and timely. Watch for slipping (engine revs rise without the car speeding up), harsh clunks into gear, or delays when you shift into Drive or Reverse.
• Brakes. In a safe spot, brake firmly. The car should stop straight. Grinding, squealing, a pulsing pedal, or a soft pedal that sinks all mean brake work.
• Steering. On a straight road, the car shouldn't pull to one side. Too much play in the wheel, or clunks when turning, can mean worn steering or suspension parts.
• Suspension. Over bumps, listen for knocks and rattles. The car should settle quickly instead of bouncing.
• Highway speed. Vibration in the steering wheel or seat at 50 to 70 mph can be tire balance, but it can also be a bent wheel or worn parts. Listen for humming that changes with speed, which can be a wheel bearing.
• Temperature gauge. It should rise to normal and stay there. Creeping toward hot is a serious warning.

Test the boring stuff too

Run the heat and the air conditioning on every setting. Try every window, lock, mirror, seat adjuster and the infotainment screen. Check the backup camera, headlights, turn signals and wipers. These repairs add up fast, and they're easy to miss when you're focused on how the car drives.

Red flags from the seller

• They want to choose the route, or keep the drive to a few minutes.
• They won't let you take the car for an independent inspection.
• The title is missing, branded (salvage, rebuilt, flood), or not in the seller's name.
• The VIN on the dash, door sticker and paperwork don't all match.
• You hear "someone else is coming to look at it today" as a reason to decide right now.

After the drive

Park it, leave it running, and look under the hood and underneath again for new leaks or smoke. Write down anything you noticed. Small issues can be negotiating points, and you can price them into your offer. Big issues, especially with the engine, transmission or frame, are reasons to walk away.

Even if the drive goes perfectly, get a pre-purchase inspection from a mechanic you choose. A test drive catches a lot, but a lift and a scan tool catch more.

When you're ready to make an offer, run the numbers in the calculator first so you know your out-the-door target and monthly payment before you sit down at the desk.